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Gallery Upper Mustang

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Pokhara - Jomosom - Kangbeni

Kagbeni - Gemi

Gemi - Tsarang - Lo Manthang

Lo Manthang - Lo Gekar - Tetang

Tetang - Muktinath - Pokhara

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Annapurna range with Machapuchare from Pokhara
Annapurna range with Machapuchare from the airplane.

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After some minutes Dhaulagiri appears.

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The 8'000 meter peak dominates the range to the west, several routes lead up on the steep south face to the summit 8'167 meter.

Enchanting scenery two hours after leaving the airplane, approaching Kagbeni
We land in Jomosom, three hours later we approach the village Kagbeni, it protects the entrance to Mustang. In earlier times as a trade post, these days as a police check post that checks the trekking permits.

Kagbeni village and Nilgiri north face
Overlooking Kagbeni and its red gompa, the north face of Nilgiri serves as a barricade against monsoon clouds - Mustang is one of the few destinations which lies in the rainshadow and makes trekking possible in summer months.


 

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While the valley still lies in the shade, the first sunrays hit the vertical north face of Nilgiri.

Nilgiri north face, horses in the dry riverbed
Walking in the riverbed would be fast, but looking for ammonites takes so time.

Children in Tangbe
Curious children in Tangbe make waiting for lunch bearable.
Children in Tangbe
Kids in Tangbe.

Kali Gandaki gorge near Chuksang village
Chukang village lies on a fertile piece of land in a riverbend, facing the steep organ-piped canyon.


Rangchung chorten, a worthwile detour
Off-the trail exploration of Rangchung Chörten, a cave monastery near Samar. The fantastic climb into the gorge takes requires some effort, but it is worth it.

Chorten near Geling
Chorten above Geling on the way to Gemi: outstanding yet at the same time blending in with its surroundings - this can be said of all architecture in Mustang.

 

Gemi La, desolate canyons and deserts define the scenery
Nyi La, what a view.


Our crew, Sirdar Bharat at the top left, kitchen crew in foreground, sherpas in the middle and the toughest porters on the right.

Gemi, oasis in the desert
View from Gemi La, far down are the green fields of the village, to the right is the long mani wall which we will pass tomorrow on the way to Tsarang.


 

Mani wall near Gemi, the longest in Mustang
Long mani wall on the way to Tsarang.

Chorten near Gemi: Man-built monuments blend in with bizarre rock formations
Chorten in front of the canyon before the pass.


Chorten at entrance to Tsarang village
The entrance to Tsarang, the old fort has not been used for a long time and its walls are crumbling down, nevertheless it contains a nice library, some old statues, and even the cut-off hand with many interesting gruesome stories attached to it.


Monastery of Tsarang
The monastery is in a sad state, the place does not attract monks anymore.

Lo Manthang
Lo Manthang, walled capital of the kingdom.Only the three monasteries and the king's palace are higher than the wall that surrounds the houses and narrow alleys.

Lo Manthang, capital of the kingdom
The entrance into the city

Lo Manthang,
Oasis in a moutain desert..

Lo Manthang, capital of the former kingdom
On top of the hills surrounding the city, the ancient forts of petty rulers are stil visible.

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View over the roofs where firewood for the long winter is kept.

Mother and her child
Mother and her child in Lo Manthang


Traditional doctor (amchi) of Lo Manthang
The amchi (Tibetan doctor) reading from a Tibetan text from the peh-jah.

Namgyal monastery
Namgyal monastery overlooking the plain.


 

Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the kingdom
Leaving Lo Manthang behind.

Valley above Lo Manthang with Namgyal monastery in the center
The 'Plains of Prayer' are a stretch of fertile land surrounded by barren rocks


Lo Gekar, the oldest monastery in Mustang
Lo Gekar, Place of Virtue is a beautiful monastery surrounded by  yellow trees and red bushes.

Fantastic view to Tangmar and its fields
Rock formations above the village Tangmar.

House in Tangmar
Yak grazing near Tamar.

Gelung village with Thorung Peak and pass in the background
Gelung in one of few villages that is not built like a fortress, the room of protector deities overlooks the village is is worth a short detour.

Statue in a monastery
Old wooden statue somewhere in Mustang..

Statue in a monastery
Old statue somewhere in Mustang..

Nyi La pass, Annapurna I, Tilicho and Nilgiri in the background
Prayerflags in front of Annapurna I, Tilicho and Nilgiri


 

Chorten at the entrance of Tetang, the village itself lies further up on a little plateau.


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Dhaulagiri from the pass between Tetang and Muktinath

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The summit of Annapurna I in the left is the highest point of the Annapurna range, but the steep ice flanks of Tilicho are not any less impressive.

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The early catches the worm, getting up early is often rewarded in the Himalayas.

Lubra, one of the few Bon monasteries in this area
Detour to Lubra is worth it, the mountain views and friendly people are great.

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Stunning Annapurna range, a view that opened up unexpectedly while walking from Muktinath to Lubra. Finding the way was difficult, we didn't meet anyone while on the main route along the Kali Gandaki dozens of tourists and Indian pilgrims were on their way to or from the holy site of Muktinath.

Nilgiri north face in the evening
Nilgiri in the morning, just before flying back to Pokhara.

Flight back to Pokhara, Machapuchare on the right
Annapurna Fang (though I am not sure) and Machapuchare are getting smaller while the green terraces become more numerous.