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Zachu (North Sikkim): IntroductionUnexplored Valleys in the NorthIs the golden age of exploration in the Himalayas dead? Mostly yes, but there remain some pockets which have escaped the attention of trekkers thanks to a variety of often unpleasant reasons. This is true for North Sikkim where the Indian military (or rather their bureaucracy) has a firm grip over the areas close to the Tibetan border for fear of the Chinese Army. However, with patience and good local contacts it is possible to trek in certain predefined areas. I am very thankful to Hishey from Discover Sikkim travel agency in Gangtok, without her this trek would not have been possible.
Instead of covering a large area (for which permits are a nightmare, if possible at all), we spend ten days in the main valley of Kangchengyao. From Thangu we walk up the valley that leads to the very foot of the 6'889 m peak. We follow a meandering creek for most of the time, and it is this river Zachu that gives the area its name.
Kangchengyao, the bearded mountain or "King Mountain", dominates the scenery. Across a large valley stands Chomoyulmo peak, his wife the "Queen Mountain". Behind Kangchengyao lies Guru Dongmar Tso, a lake visited and blessed by Guru Padmasambhava on his way to Tibet. Though temptingly close, we do not stray of our path - military presence would mean certain detection and unpleasant consequences, esp. for my local crew. The valleys in Zachu were formed by glaciers, and the shape of the valleys are all old moraines, most surprising and picturesque are the plateaus from which we enjoy stunning views. The entire chain of tall peaks that form the border between Sikkim and Nepal rise to the west, culminating in the triangular south summit of Kangchenjunga. A dozen lakes and ponds invite for day trips and the reflection on their clear surface increases the feeling that the world here consists of only the blue of the sky and the white of snow.
Famous lamas have meditated in the caves of the Deuthang valley, most well-known is Alexandra David Neel, the French Buddhist woman who showed extreme courage and strength on the journeys in Tibet. Deforestation has taken away some of the previous charm of the valley, but it is a nice contrast to the barren Zachu area and we spend two days enjoying the wildlife and the lush vegetation. Then, sadly, my visit in North Sikkim already comes to an end. We walk down to the road at Kelap and ride back to Gangtok.
The last major destination before returning to Nepal is Darjeeling. After having spent many days in Sikkim, the city does not feel that exciting, but occasionally when wandering through the narrow alleys one can feel what it must have been like a hundred years ago when traders from all over India met and major explorations of the British started here. For a proper good-bye from the mountains I get up early and watch the sunrise from Tiger Hill. While Darjeeling lies asleep in the shade, the sun rises as a red circle through the dense fog and the Kangchenjunga massif explodes in colours. It was certainly not my last visit to North Sikkim.
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In-depth travelogue with pictures:
Text Only Outside sources of information: Thanks to:
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(c) 2007, Carsten Nebel |