MyHimalayas

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Summary: Pictures in this gallery are from a three-week long trek in the Dolpo region in September 2008. For the travelogue and itinerary, see my Dolpo travelogue. Map of Dolpo in western Nepal. Map of Dolpo in western Nepal.
Map of Dolpo with passes, villages and routes. Map of Dolpo with passes, villages and routes.
The Tiji festival is ongoing at the Pashupatinath temple, and women in red saris queue up for a mile to enter the important Hindu shrine. The Tiji festival is ongoing at the Pashupatinath temple, and women in red saris queue up for a mile to enter the important Hindu shrine. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Many smiles while waiting in the long, long line. Many smiles while waiting in the long, long line.
Tiji festival queue. Tiji festival queue.
Colourful dresses at the Tiji festival. Colourful dresses at the Tiji festival.
Getting to the start of the trek is an adventure for itself, luckily the weather is fine and we land safely and without a delay at Juphal airport. Sometimes people get stuck in Nepalganji for days until the weather clears. Getting to the start of the trek is an adventure for itself, luckily the weather is fine and we land safely and without a delay at Juphal airport. Sometimes people get stuck in Nepalganji for days until the weather clears.
An easy first day of walking from the Juphal airport to Dunai takes us through lush terraces of corn and wheat. An easy first day of walking from the Juphal airport to Dunai takes us through lush terraces of corn and wheat.
Hillside near Dunai turn into an intense dark green in the late afternoon. Hillside near Dunai turn into an intense dark green in the late afternoon.
Nothing like a steep climb to get in shape at the beginning of a trek. We leave Dunai and take the high-route up the Suli valley towards Ringmo. Nothing like a steep climb to get in shape at the beginning of a trek. We leave Dunai and take the high-route up the Suli valley towards Ringmo.
Our first glimpse of the high mountains of Upper Dolpo on our second day up the Suli gorge. Our first glimpse of the high mountains of Upper Dolpo on our second day up the Suli gorge.
Life in the middle hills is very hard for the Magar community. Life in the middle hills is very hard for the Magar community.
We take the high route to Ringmo and are greeted with smiles in the small villages. We take the high route to Ringmo and are greeted with smiles in the small villages.
Young girl in one of the villages above the Suli river. Young girl in one of the villages above the Suli river.
Enjoying late breakfast. Enjoying late breakfast.
Best friends in Rohagoan. Best friends in Rohagoan.
There's also less wild hairstyles in Rohagoan. There's also less wild hairstyles in Rohagoan.
Taking a break from hard work. Taking a break from hard work.
The Soligad creek below comes from the turquoise Phoksumdo lake. The Soligad creek below comes from the turquoise Phoksumdo lake.
Panorama of Rike village and its barley fields, a worthwile alternative path to Ringmo. Panorama of Rike village and its barley fields, a worthwile alternative path to Ringmo. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
In Rike we are invited inside for a cup of tea. Beware of etiquette, you have to accept refills as a polite guest. In Rike we are invited inside for a cup of tea. Beware of etiquette, you have to accept refills as a polite guest.
Sitting in the simple but cozy living room in Rike and gossiping in broken Tibetan. Sitting in the simple but cozy living room in Rike and gossiping in broken Tibetan.
From Rike we climb up steeply to reach a wonderful spot from where we see the large waterfall, the lovely forest and at the right Ringmo village and finallythe magic Phoksumdo lake. The white summit of Kanjiroba towers above the enchanted landscape. From Rike we climb up steeply to reach a wonderful spot from where we see the large waterfall, the lovely forest and at the right Ringmo village and finallythe magic Phoksumdo lake. The white summit of Kanjiroba towers above the enchanted landscape. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Yellow buckwheat fields add a great contrast do the blue colour of the lake. Yellow buckwheat fields add a great contrast do the blue colour of the lake.
A small trail takes us through buckwheat fields to Ringmo, a large village. A small trail takes us through buckwheat fields to Ringmo, a large village.
Kids playing in Ringmo. Kids playing in Ringmo.
Mother and her daughter in Ringmo. Mother and her daughter in Ringmo.
Video of Ringmo in Dolpo, the lovely village and its great surroundings. Video of Ringmo in Dolpo, the lovely village and its great surroundings.
Panorama of the Phoksumdo lake from our campsite. Panorama of the Phoksumdo lake from our campsite. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture

If one picture is to show the rewards for tough hiking for days and days - this is it. If one picture is to show the rewards for tough hiking for days and days - this is it.

Panorama of chortens outside of Ringmo that we pass on the way to the monastery on the eastern shore. Panorama of chortens outside of Ringmo that we pass on the way to the monastery on the eastern shore. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama of Ringmo's surroundings. Panorama of Ringmo's surroundings. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
In the morning the sun reveals blue and turquoise tones that are strictly separated by the shade. In the morning the sun reveals blue and turquoise tones that are strictly separated by the shade.
Panorama of Phoksumdo lake near its outflow, on its eastern shore stands the Bon monastery. Panorama of Phoksumdo lake near its outflow, on its eastern shore stands the Bon monastery. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
The trail drops down towards the lake, the splashing of tiny waves and the chirping of birds complete the picture of harmony. Despite the idyllic surroundings, one shouldn't forget that life for people of Dolpo (and Nepal in general) is very hard. The trail drops down towards the lake, the splashing of tiny waves and the chirping of birds complete the picture of harmony. Despite the idyllic surroundings, one shouldn't forget that life for people of Dolpo (and Nepal in general) is very hard.
Catching a glimpse of the monastery through the lush vegetation at 3'500 meters above sea level. Catching a glimpse of the monastery through the lush vegetation at 3'500 meters above sea level.
Monastery of Ringmo with Kanjiroba rising in the left. Monastery of Ringmo with Kanjiroba rising in the left.
Panorama from the Bon gompa in Ringmo. Panorama from the Bon gompa in Ringmo. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
A climb up from the monastery into the valley above reveals an alpine meadow with dozens of different flowers. A climb up from the monastery into the valley above reveals an alpine meadow with dozens of different flowers. "White gentians" in Ringmo Dolpo Nepal.
Clustered summer gentian contrasted by red leave, near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal. Clustered summer gentian contrasted by red leave, near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal.
Low-growing trailing bellflower near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal. Low-growing trailing bellflower near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal.
Slender lousewort near Ringmo Dolpo Nepal. Slender lousewort near Ringmo Dolpo Nepal.
Himalayan Fleabane near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal. Himalayan Fleabane near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal.
Flower near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal. Flower near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal.
Rugged yellow balsam near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal. Rugged yellow balsam near Ringmo in Dolpo Nepal.
A narrow trail goes along the lake. It looks challenging for us, how will the horses get across there? A narrow trail goes along the lake. It looks challenging for us, how will the horses get across there?
Trail above the lake, often it's a vertical 30, 50 feet down into the cold water. Trail above the lake, often it's a vertical 30, 50 feet down into the cold water.
Video of the narrow trail along the Ringmo lake that we take towards Shey (part 1) Video of the narrow trail along the Ringmo lake that we take towards Shey (part 1)
The horses are unloaded but don't have any problems on the trail. The art of trail-making in the Himalayas is hundreds of years old and produces stunning constructions of stone, as seen here where rocks are piled to support the overhanging trail. The horses are unloaded but don't have any problems on the trail. The art of trail-making in the Himalayas is hundreds of years old and produces stunning constructions of stone, as seen here where rocks are piled to support the overhanging trail.
How can trekking be any better as on the gentle parts along the Puksumdo lake. How can trekking be any better as on the gentle parts along the Puksumdo lake.
We cross a lovely alluvial fan covered by pines. We cross a lovely alluvial fan covered by pines.
View back to Ringmo at the southern shore of the Phoksumdo lake. View back to Ringmo at the southern shore of the Phoksumdo lake.
Jamie looking back to Ringmo and the narrow trail carved out of the sheer rockfaces. Jamie looking back to Ringmo and the narrow trail carved out of the sheer rockfaces.
Panorama from high above the Puksumdo lake. We came from Ringmo at the very right, and head to Shey via the northern shore at the very left. Panorama from high above the Puksumdo lake. We came from Ringmo at the very right, and head to Shey via the northern shore at the very left. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Video of the high trail above the lake on the way to Shey. Video of the high trail above the lake on the way to Shey.
Panorama of the northern shore of Phoksumdo lake. Our horses get a short break to graze while we enjoy the Nepali staple diet of dal baht - rice with lentils. It's hard to imagine a more perfect lunchspot. Panorama of the northern shore of Phoksumdo lake. Our horses get a short break to graze while we enjoy the Nepali staple diet of dal baht - rice with lentils. It's hard to imagine a more perfect lunchspot. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Short nap after lunch on the way to Shey. Short nap after lunch on the way to Shey.
Also the porters enjoy a much-deserved rest after a hard morning walk. Also the porters enjoy a much-deserved rest after a hard morning walk.
Clouds move in as we climb higher on the way to our first high pass. Clouds move in as we climb higher on the way to our first high pass.
Studying the map before going to bed: what will tomorrow bring? Studying the map before going to bed: what will tomorrow bring?

Early light hits the mountains on the way to Shey. Early light hits the mountains on the way to Shey.
On the way to the first pass just to the right of the rocky summit on the horizon. On the way to the first pass just to the right of the rocky summit on the horizon.
At almost 5'000 meters on the way to Mentok Ting La pass. At almost 5'000 meters on the way to Mentok Ting La pass.
Pass #1, Mentok Ting La West, though it also seems to be called Kang La West on maps. It's further north-west than the pass taken by most tourists, and reveals great views into Upper Dolpo. Pass #1, Mentok Ting La West, though it also seems to be called Kang La West on maps. It's further north-west than the pass taken by most tourists, and reveals great views into Upper Dolpo.
Looking from the Mentok Ting La pass into the true Upper Dolpo and the Tibetan border. Looking from the Mentok Ting La pass into the true Upper Dolpo and the Tibetan border.
Panorama on the way to Shey reveals the stunning colours of Upper Dolpo. Panorama on the way to Shey reveals the stunning colours of Upper Dolpo. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Video of precipicous trails we take to get to Shey. The horses had to walk over the hillside. Video of precipicous trails we take to get to Shey. The horses had to walk over the hillside.
Panorama of the colorful Upper Dolpo area near Shey. Panorama of the colorful Upper Dolpo area near Shey. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Kitchen crew on the way to Shey, a tiny settlement with a well-known monastery. Kitchen crew on the way to Shey, a tiny settlement with a well-known monastery.
Tsekang monastery lies an hour above Shey and clings to the vertical cliff like an eagle's nest. Tsekang monastery lies an hour above Shey and clings to the vertical cliff like an eagle's nest.
Tsekang Dechen monastery is an impressive sight from all directions. Tsekang Dechen monastery is an impressive sight from all directions.
Mani walls below the Tsakang gompa near Shey. Mani walls below the Tsakang gompa near Shey.
Video of young woman weaving in Shey, she lives in Saldang but comes to meadows near Shey and weaves to generate additional income. Video of young woman weaving in Shey, she lives in Saldang but comes to meadows near Shey and weaves to generate additional income.
Weaving in Shey, most people move with their cattle in summer time to pastures outside of their village, and live in tents during the time. Weaving in Shey, most people move with their cattle in summer time to pastures outside of their village, and live in tents during the time.
Weaving in Shey. Weaving in Shey.
Weaving in Shey. Weaving in Shey.
Men are often away on trade in summer and visit Tibet, women are left in the villages and take care of babies during their daily chores. Men are often away on trade in summer and visit Tibet, women are left in the villages and take care of babies during their daily chores.
The famous monastery of Shey in the early morning. The famous monastery of Shey in the early morning.
We find the caretaker and he opens the door of the assembly hall of Shey's gompa. We find the caretaker and he opens the door of the assembly hall of Shey's gompa.
Protector deity in the monastery. Protector deity in the monastery.
Statue in Shey monastery. Statue in Shey monastery.
We leave the picturesque Shey behind us and walk to Namgung that lies a day further to the north-east. We leave the picturesque Shey behind us and walk to Namgung that lies a day further to the north-east.
Pass #2, Gela La and also called Namgung Bhanjyang. Pass #2, Gela La and also called Namgung Bhanjyang.
Kitchen crew descending from the Gela La into the barren valleys of Namgung. Kitchen crew descending from the Gela La into the barren valleys of Namgung.
Looking back to the Gela La in Upper Dolpo. Looking back to the Gela La in Upper Dolpo.
Panorama of Upper Dolpo landscape on the way to Namgung. Panorama of Upper Dolpo landscape on the way to Namgung. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Once again we had an excellent crew, working hard and seeming to enjoy the trip as much as we did. Once again we had an excellent crew, working hard and seeming to enjoy the trip as much as we did.
Crew taking a short break. Crew taking a short break.
On top of the world you can touch the clouds. Weather changes quickly, incredible but true we only walked half an hour in rain during the entire trek, but often came to enjoy majestic clouds and bursts of rain from a safe distance. On top of the world you can touch the clouds. Weather changes quickly, incredible but true we only walked half an hour in rain during the entire trek, but often came to enjoy majestic clouds and bursts of rain from a safe distance.
Near Namgung red bushes dotted the hillsides which contrasted starkly with the dark barren slopes above. Near Namgung red bushes dotted the hillsides which contrasted starkly with the dark barren slopes above.
Panorama of hillsides near Namgung. Panorama of hillsides near Namgung. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture

Nomad tent with stone cage to protect the valuable goats safe from predators are night. Nomad tent with stone cage to protect the valuable goats safe from predators are night.
Old gentleman on the way to his house in Saldang to drop of the yak dung that heats the houses in winter. Old gentleman on the way to his house in Saldang to drop of the yak dung that heats the houses in winter.
Shy young girl from Saldang. Shy young girl from Saldang.
Yaks roam on the hillsides on their own. Yaks roam on the hillsides on their own.
Look down into the Namgung valley where a few terraced barley fields make survival for the small village possible. Look down into the Namgung valley where a few terraced barley fields make survival for the small village possible.
Abandoned monastery of Namgung above the barley fields. Abandoned monastery of Namgung above the barley fields.
Panorama of new monastery in Namgung. The old monastery to the right has fallen down and isn't in use any longer. Panorama of new monastery in Namgung. The old monastery to the right has fallen down and isn't in use any longer. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
The caretaker opens up the monastery for us. The caretaker opens up the monastery for us.
Nomad with fierce watchdog on way to Saldang whose yellow barley fields stand out of the ochre barren hillsides. Nomad with fierce watchdog on way to Saldang whose yellow barley fields stand out of the ochre barren hillsides.
Suddenly the fertile valley of Saldang appears at the bottom of the valley. The stretched out village is very picturesque. Suddenly the fertile valley of Saldang appears at the bottom of the valley. The stretched out village is very picturesque.
Panorama of the Saldang valley and its ripe barley fields. Panorama of the Saldang valley and its ripe barley fields. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama of Saldang's monastery, red-colored chortens and the terraces of barley. Panorama of Saldang's monastery, red-colored chortens and the terraces of barley. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama of field and house of Saldang. Panorama of field and house of Saldang. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Woman from Saldang takes a short break from harvesting the barley. Woman from Saldang takes a short break from harvesting the barley.
Friendlyface in Saldang. Friendlyface in Saldang.
We leave the main village of Saldang but pass many others during the rest of the afternoon. We leave the main village of Saldang but pass many others during the rest of the afternoon.
Panorama of characteristic village below Saldang, with a yak caravan at the right on the way to Do Tarap. Destination is the same, speed isn't. They arrive there days ahead of us, since they walk deep into the night. Panorama of characteristic village below Saldang, with a yak caravan at the right on the way to Do Tarap. Destination is the same, speed isn't. They arrive there days ahead of us, since they walk deep into the night. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Wonderful walk in the valley. Wonderful walk in the valley.
High above the valley stands a monastery. High above the valley stands a monastery.
In the late afternoon the setting sun replaces color with shape. In the late afternoon the setting sun replaces color with shape.
Yak caravan on the way to Do Tarap. Yak caravan on the way to Do Tarap.
Video of yak caravan in Upper Dolpo near Saldang. Video of yak caravan in Upper Dolpo near Saldang.
Loaded yak, the animals can be fast if they want to and keeping a safe distance isn't a bad idea. Loaded yak, the animals can be fast if they want to and keeping a safe distance isn't a bad idea.
Another yak carrying a small load. Another yak carrying a small load.
Our caravan on the way to Do Tarap, trying to find the pass. Our caravan on the way to Do Tarap, trying to find the pass.
Colorful valley between Saldang and Dotarap. Colorful valley between Saldang and Dotarap. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
On the way to the Do Tarap valley, there's definitely a trail though the pass we were supposed to take is much further to the left. On the way to the Do Tarap valley, there's definitely a trail though the pass we were supposed to take is much further to the left.
Despite all natural highlightes during the hiking day, dinner is always another highlight. Despite all natural highlightes during the hiking day, dinner is always another highlight.
Great morning for crossing 2 high passes into the Tarap valley. Great morning for crossing 2 high passes into the Tarap valley.
Everybody made it well through the night at Everybody made it well through the night at "diamox" camp where we stayed at high altitude. It is certainly much colder than on previous days and the hot chocolate highly appreciated.
Himalayan stoat at an altitude of almost 5'000 meters. Himalayan stoat at an altitude of almost 5'000 meters.
Curiously watching us tourists but always ready to run. Curiously watching us tourists but always ready to run.
Up the barren slopes towards our third high pass, the Langmosia La. Up the barren slopes towards our third high pass, the Langmosia La.
Short break before the last part towards the pass. Short break before the last part towards the pass.
Looking back towards the Saldang valley. Looking back towards the Saldang valley.

Panorama of Upper Dolpo. Panorama of Upper Dolpo. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Pass #3, the Langmosia La. Pass #3, the Langmosia La.
Panorama from Langmosia La. Panorama from Langmosia La. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Pass #4, the Chang La, with Langmosia La just above the left hand. Two passes in one day, not too difficult because they are close to each other but the way down to Do Tarap is quite a stretch. Pass #4, the Chang La, with Langmosia La just above the left hand. Two passes in one day, not too difficult because they are close to each other but the way down to Do Tarap is quite a stretch.
Panorama from Chang La. Panorama from Chang La. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
We descend on a barren slope down to lower altitudes. We descend on a barren slope down to lower altitudes.
Finally, after a long day, the valley of Do comes in sight. Finally, after a long day, the valley of Do comes in sight.
Looking back towards the Chang La as we finally arrive in the Tarap valley. Looking back towards the Chang La as we finally arrive in the Tarap valley.
Barley fields in Do Tarap. Barley fields in Do Tarap.
Monastery of Do. Monastery of Do.
The monastery above Do village in the Tarap valley is visible from far away and stands out on the ochre hillsides. The monastery above Do village in the Tarap valley is visible from far away and stands out on the ochre hillsides.
Looking up the Do Tarap valley. Looking up the Do Tarap valley.
Panorama Do Tarap valley. Panorama Do Tarap valley. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Tarap valley in Upper Dolpo Tarap valley in Upper Dolpo
Summer brings much work, here grass is being cut for winter-fodder. Summer brings much work, here grass is being cut for winter-fodder.
Taking a break from cutting grass to chat. Taking a break from cutting grass to chat.
Mother with child in Do Tarap. Mother with child in Do Tarap.
Portrait Do Tarap with traditional jewellery. Portrait Do Tarap with traditional jewellery.
Nobody too small to be a babysitter. Nobody too small to be a babysitter.
Portrait Do Tarap. Portrait Do Tarap.
Portrait of young girl in Do. Portrait of young girl in Do.
Portrait of young girl in Do who opens the door to the monastery. Portrait of young girl in Do who opens the door to the monastery.

Musk larkspur looks very delicate but survives the cold nights at 4'500 meters quite well. Musk larkspur looks very delicate but survives the cold nights at 4'500 meters quite well.
On the way to the lower part of Tarap valley where we branch off towards Charkha. On the way to the lower part of Tarap valley where we branch off towards Charkha.
Chorten and monastery of Do. Chorten and monastery of Do.
Chorten and houses of Do. Chorten and houses of Do.
View from Do monastery up the Tarap valley. View from Do monastery up the Tarap valley.
Panorama of the Tarap valley in the right down to Do village and up the Shipchok valley at the very left. Panorama of the Tarap valley in the right down to Do village and up the Shipchok valley at the very left. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama of the Do village and surrounding fields. Panorama of the Do village and surrounding fields. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture

Trail goes through golden barley fields to the small village of Shipchok. Trail goes through golden barley fields to the small village of Shipchok.
Panorama of Shipchok valley in Upper Dolpo. Panorama of Shipchok valley in Upper Dolpo. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture


Wooden door to Shipchok's monastery, one of the few Bon monasteries remaining. Wooden door to Shipchok's monastery, one of the few Bon monasteries remaining.
Panorama Shipchok village at the left and the way to the Choka La at the very right. Panorama Shipchok village at the left and the way to the Choka La at the very right. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
On the way to Chakoed La with a little snow for decoration. On the way to Chakoed La with a little snow for decoration.
Mules and horses don't have trouble with snow or altitude, amazing animals. Mules and horses don't have trouble with snow or altitude, amazing animals.
On the plateau of Chakod La pass. On the plateau of Chakod La pass.
Panorama of Choeka La, often wrongly called Charkha La. Panorama of Choeka La, often wrongly called Charkha La. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Pass #5, Chaköd La. Pass #5, Chaköd La.
Panorama of our camp below the Mola pass. Panorama of our camp below the Mola pass. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture

Approaching yet another pass that will take us into the Charkha valley. Approaching yet another pass that will take us into the Charkha valley.
Pass #6, Mola La. Pass #6, Mola La.
People from Charkha also go to high pastures during summer. People from Charkha also go to high pastures during summer.
Tourists are rare in this part of Dolpo. Tourists are rare in this part of Dolpo.
Inside a nomad's tent, life is harsh and not as idyllic as we might think. Inside a nomad's tent, life is harsh and not as idyllic as we might think.
Himalayan griffon are huge, and sometimes fly quite low. Himalayan griffon are huge, and sometimes fly quite low.
Kings of the sky, Himalayan griffon near Charkha. Kings of the sky, Himalayan griffon near Charkha.
View of Charkha village and the fields that surround this remote settlement. View of Charkha village and the fields that surround this remote settlement.
Mani wall and chorten of Charkha. Mani wall and chorten of Charkha.
Looking back from Charkha towards Mola pass. Looking back from Charkha towards Mola pass.
Panorama of Charkha and fields. Panorama of Charkha and fields. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama Charkha. Panorama Charkha.
Yaks being driven into the village. Yaks being driven into the village.
Yaks in Charkha. Yaks in Charkha.
Charkha feels more like a fortress than a village. Charkha feels more like a fortress than a village.
The women gather for an afternoon chat with parallel spinning and weaving. The women gather for an afternoon chat with parallel spinning and weaving.
Video of village life in Charkha. Video of village life in Charkha.
Village elder in Charkha. Village elder in Charkha.
Portrait in Charkha. Portrait in Charkha.
Portrait in Charka. Portrait in Charka.
Portrait in Charkha. Portrait in Charkha.

Strange light in the morning announces a day of foul weather just as we leave for the difficult pass into the Sangtha valley. Strange light in the morning announces a day of foul weather just as we leave for the difficult pass into the Sangtha valley.
On the way to the Sangtha valley bad weather and snow surprises us. On the way to the Sangtha valley bad weather and snow surprises us.
Pass #7, name not known to me. Pass #7, name not known to me.
Panorama of our caravan on the way to pass #8 in the desolated, wind-swept valley. Panorama of our caravan on the way to pass #8 in the desolated, wind-swept valley. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
On the way to the crest at the left, horses having trouble in deeper snow. On the way to the crest at the left, horses having trouble in deeper snow.
Climbing the steep, snow-bound hillside towards the pass. Climbing the steep, snow-bound hillside towards the pass.
What a mission day - the strong ones (which doesn't include me) break trail on the way to pass #8 which we've almost reached. Everybody is struggling and fighting with exhaustion. Where are the horses, and how can they possible make it up and over the pass? What a mission day - the strong ones (which doesn't include me) break trail on the way to pass #8 which we've almost reached. Everybody is struggling and fighting with exhaustion. Where are the horses, and how can they possible make it up and over the pass?
Pass #8, Sangtha La. The most difficult one, even under normal conditions. Pass #8, Sangtha La. The most difficult one, even under normal conditions.
A steep descent, but snowlevel doesn't get lower. A steep descent, but snowlevel doesn't get lower.
It's a miracle but the horses made it over the pass. They will spend a freezing night outside and have to descend steeper snowfields tomorrow - the horsemen are about to have a nervous breakdown but going back isn't an option either. It's a miracle but the horses made it over the pass. They will spend a freezing night outside and have to descend steeper snowfields tomorrow - the horsemen are about to have a nervous breakdown but going back isn't an option either.
After a rough night we were lucky and not too much new snow fell, the weather has cleared a little and we can attempt our last high pass. The crew broke trail already and carried many loads because horses can't carry anything in these conditions. After a rough night we were lucky and not too much new snow fell, the weather has cleared a little and we can attempt our last high pass. The crew broke trail already and carried many loads because horses can't carry anything in these conditions.
The crew waiting on the crest that marks pass# 8. The crew waiting on the crest that marks pass# 8.
There not enough flat space so we put up a the dining tent as a dormitory. Frankly speaking, most (all?) of us are so exhausted that we're just happy to rest. There not enough flat space so we put up a the dining tent as a dormitory. Frankly speaking, most (all?) of us are so exhausted that we're just happy to rest.
Looking back towards our camp where we managed to put up only the kitchen tent and the dining tent where everybody slept. Looking back towards our camp where we managed to put up only the kitchen tent and the dining tent where everybody slept.
Pass #9. Pass #9.
Resting and taking pictures on the last high pass. Resting and taking pictures on the last high pass. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Looking down into the Sangda valley where bad weather seems brewing already - luckily most clouds disappear soon afterwards. Looking down into the Sangda valley where bad weather seems brewing already - luckily most clouds disappear soon afterwards.
Eagle flies over the Sangda valley with the village and fields in the background. It looks temptingly close, but will be quite a hike to get there. Eagle flies over the Sangda valley with the village and fields in the background. It looks temptingly close, but will be quite a hike to get there.
The Sangda gorge has a reputation of being quite difficult, and we have to cross the steep canyon and climb all the way up again to hit the only trail. The Sangda gorge has a reputation of being quite difficult, and we have to cross the steep canyon and climb all the way up again to hit the only trail. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Sangda valley with harvested buckwheat and barley fields. Sangda valley with harvested buckwheat and barley fields.
Houses of Sangda. Houses of Sangda.
Summer is spent on the roof where turnips and mustard oil are being prepared. Summer is spent on the roof where turnips and mustard oil are being prepared.
Portrait in Sangda. Portrait in Sangda.
The village of Sangda is very remote, history says that an entire family was expelled from the kingdom of Mustang and had to settle in the Sangda valley. The village of Sangda is very remote, history says that an entire family was expelled from the kingdom of Mustang and had to settle in the Sangda valley.
From Sangda we look back to the passes we crossed yesterday. Another group is descending right now from the dip in the highest range, we meet them by coincidence in Pokhara three days later and they really suffered. First I took them for climbers on Dhaulagiri and was a little surprised that it was Sangda La that completely worn them out. From Sangda we look back to the passes we crossed yesterday. Another group is descending right now from the dip in the highest range, we meet them by coincidence in Pokhara three days later and they really suffered. First I took them for climbers on Dhaulagiri and was a little surprised that it was Sangda La that completely worn them out.
Pass #10, not our highest but the last of our passes and therefore still a good reason to celebrate. Pass #10, not our highest but the last of our passes and therefore still a good reason to celebrate.
Panorama at the end of Sangda valley where we climb a little viewpoint for the grand view over Mustang. Panorama at the end of Sangda valley where we climb a little viewpoint for the grand view over Mustang. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
For the Hindu festival season goats are brought all the way from Tibet into Nepal's heartland - prices are rather high and even up here a goat already costs $100. For the Hindu festival season goats are brought all the way from Tibet into Nepal's heartland - prices are rather high and even up here a goat already costs $100.
Thousands of sheep are driven down on the small trails today (and on any other day the next week), at narrow spots a traffic jam forces us to wait and be careful - these animals create rockfall. Thousands of sheep are driven down on the small trails today (and on any other day the next week), at narrow spots a traffic jam forces us to wait and be careful - these animals create rockfall.
It is a great idea to escape the crowds of the Annapurna Circuit and stay on the high route, therefore we camp in the interesting Dangarjong (Dakar-dzong). It is a great idea to escape the crowds of the Annapurna Circuit and stay on the high route, therefore we camp in the interesting Dangarjong (Dakar-dzong).
Rainstorm looming over the Kali Gandaki valley near Jomosom. Rainstorm looming over the Kali Gandaki valley near Jomosom.
Nilgiri north face just at sunrise. Nilgiri north face just at sunrise.
A few minutes later, half of the steep flanks of Niligi are already in orange light. A few minutes later, half of the steep flanks of Niligi are already in orange light.
Nilgiri north face in the morning light just after sunrise. Nilgiri north face in the morning light just after sunrise.
Chortens against the approaching night sky. Goodbye Dolpo, hopefully I'll have another chance to visit and explore those corners that we missed during this fantastic, 4 week long trek. Chortens against the approaching night sky. Goodbye Dolpo, hopefully I'll have another chance to visit and explore those corners that we missed during this fantastic, 4 week long trek.

   
  (c) 2008, Carsten Nebel